We were desperate to escape after many months of lockdown…so we did. Just one night at the Regent in Tivat, Porto Montenegro was enough to recharge (for a while…). We enjoyed a much-needed change of scenery, pampering at the spa, and strolling alongside the yachts and cruisers.
Hello, World!
We took advantage of the orthodox Easter holiday for a quick trip to Budapest. Despite the crappy weather (and being under the weather), the city did not disappoint. The kiddos got the real European train experience, and we did the not-to-miss Danube River evening boat tour, so Papo got his fill of planes, trains, boats, and cars on this trip. Both kids loved the Minipolisz where they got to try out various professions. Parents enjoyed fantastic food and an amazing place called the Cookie Beacon. The city has a really great vibe and we can't wait to return to spend more time exploring.
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We learned last year just how much rain can fall in November and December; so we know to take advantage of a dry fall day. On just such a day, we took a drive to Cetinje, the historic and royal capital of Montenegro. Limestone mountains surround the city, including Mount Lovcen, the inspiration behind the name of Montenegro; Crna Gora (Black Mountain). And home to the Mausoleum of Petrovic.
To get to the Mausoleum, we had to climb up 461 steps to the top, a challenging task with a toddler who just got up from his nap. Passing the Mausoleum, there's a narrow walkway with a thousand-foot or so drop on either side. Scary for "some" of us.
After, the kids rode their bikes in the center of town.
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It’s late October, and fall colors are in full swing. We hopped in the car and drove an hour away to Grlo Sokolovo, a viewing point of the Cijevna canyon and the Prokletije mountain range. What should have been an hour-long hike turned into a 3-hour hike, but in the end, we got to see some beautiful fall foliage, take a plethora of pictures, and the little guy got to witness an excavator in action. SCORE!
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What a cool place. We loved our short trip to Dubrovnik, and a visit in the shoulder season is the way to go. We’re happy to throw on jackets and brave some wind to avoid tons of tourists and scorching temps in the high season. We walked the old city walls which provide really incredible views of the city itself and the sea below. And then there’s Game of Thrones. Only 3.5 hours from our house, we made it there and back on half a tank of gas. We definitely look forward to returning.
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Just an hour away from Podgorica up in the mountains is Djurdjevina Family Farm. We stayed there for the weekend back in mid-September, and we got a long enough break from the rain to enjoy the stunning views, a relaxing picnic, and a family hike.
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For Labor Day Weekend 2021, we stayed at an Air B&B in Donja Lastva. September is the beginning of the offseason -- less crowded and with somewhat warm water temperature, we got to enjoy some quiet time in our little spot with long walks and morning rides on our stand-up paddleboards (SUP). Annika learned how to maneuver her SUP all by herself!
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We were fortunate to have the GrandMimi travel with us to Montenegro following R&R. During the month of August 2021, we set off to show her our Montenegrin adventures, starting with Sveti Stefan, priganice at Imanje Knjaz, and a tour of Skadar Lake with our favorite little company Ivana's Golden Frog.
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Last week we took a boat tour of Kotor Bay with Captain Ivan (perhaps Wilco’s biggest fan, but that’s a story for another time). There's a lot of history here, most notably the plethora of fortresses and Catholic Churches -- both of which served as fortifications against the Ottomans when the bay was under Venetian rule. The most famous church is Our Lady of the Rocks sitting on an artificial island built over the years by sailors laying rocks after a successful sea voyage. You can also see various relics from the Cold War -- tunnels along the coast built to hide Yugoslavian submarines and boats. Some people now use the tunnels for "cliff" jumping (notably, not us). Although the water was cold at 68F, we did jump in to explore Blue Cave, aptly named because the reflecting light from rocks and sand give off a blue color.
We stayed at the lovely Carrubba hotel in Donja Lastva, just outside of Tivat.
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We made an impromptu visit to Budva for a day over Memorial Day weekend. It was a good call; we enjoyed the old town and a bit of the beach without the blistering heat and throngs of tourists that you’d find later in the summer. Only an hour from our house—we’ll be back :)
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Quick trip to an animal rehabilitation center. Rain came in to make the experience extra muddy. Kids had fun though.
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Spring is in a fierce battle with the remnants of a wet winter here, and we got lucky with a planned boat outing to Skadar Lake after a week of rain. This is one of the closest attractions to our home—only about 30 minutes from Podgorica. We highly recommend the Golden Frog tour company in Virpazar; 16-year old Ivana is the owner and guide, and she provided a fantastic afternoon on the water.
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We got away for a couple of hours (to celebrate our anniversary) for a lunch at Rijeka Crnojevica—an inlet of nearby Skadar Lake. Recommend the fish soup and fried carp.
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It took us two attempts to do the hike at Poseljani (we ran out of daylight on the first try), but it was well worth it. Just the drive through the mountains above Skadar Lake National Park is stunning. Annika was a real champ, hiking down through a tricky and damp enchanted forest and then back up the mountain again with no complaints.
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We were invited by an Embassy family (from Maine) to do a family friendly hike in the mountains near the Albanian border (still only about an hour from Podgorica). The frigid temperatures and sleet upon arrival did not deter those crazy Maine-iacs, and so off we went. The girls had an absolute blast, and the weather cleared enough to enjoy some breath-taking views of the “Falcon’s Throat.”
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The great thing about living in Podgorica is our proximity to the beach AND the mountains. About an hour NW of Podgorica, driving through a scenic windy road with tunnels and the occasional canyon, is Kolasin — a ski resort town.
Many thanks to Suzan, Michelle, and Vince for this lovely October birthday gift -- a weekend getaway. The Bianca hotel was fantastic with its cozy rooms, indoor swimming pool, and our favorite hike around Lake Biograd only 20 minutes away.
Lake Biograd is one of 5 glacier lakes in Biogradska Gora National Park. The hike goes around the lake and through the untouched forest with a diversity of plants and trees over five hundred years old.
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Perast is an old town on the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro (just a few km away from Kotor) and a perfect stay for our getaway weekend. If you are a cat lover, this area is for you! Folklore has it that cats saved the town -- not sure exactly how, but I think I'll leave that part as a mystery. A more plausible reason could be that the Austro-Hungarian navy would frequently dock here, and their sailors would bring their cats, many from all over the world. This area between the sea and mountains brought about a good population of mice, rats, and snakes, making cats necessary to protect people's property. I am mentioning "cats" here because our kids, unfortunately, got a low-grade fever during our stay (NOT COVID) and thought this would be an interesting tidbit to share. There were cats all over the place. Sick kids limited our activities, but we managed to enjoy the pool and the scenic views. They were back to their usual selves when it was time to head home.
We managed to have nice dinners at Ćatovića Mlini and Hotel Per Astra, the hotel next to our B&B.
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Our first stop along Montenegro's picturesque Adriatic coast is Sveti Stefan, used as the cover of National Geographic Traveler magazine and long-time host to international celebrities seeking a private escape (think Marilyn Monroe). This pebbly beach is only an hour away from home, making it our perfect half-day getaway.
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After our year and a half pause from the diplomatic lifestyle, we have arrived at our next post in Podgorica, Montenegro.
Unfortunately, we traveled during the time of COVID-19, which made for a challenging move, complete with mandatory quarantine upon arrival; however, we are very excited to explore this region of the world.
Land-Ho
